Xenophilia and music. El Lebrijano

There's not much racism here in Spain where I live. People are used to foreign inhabitants, exchange students and tourists. No matter their skin colour, ethnicity, religion or upbringing. All are socially equal and acceptable. At least, until Spanish is spoken. Even if not, it's enough that your are a legally admitted resident, and they already think of you as of a Spanish person. It has it's historical reasons. But I think, it has most to do with the fact that Spain was a part of Al-Andalus (also known as the Moorish Iberia or Islamic Iberia) governed by Muslims (given the generic name of Moors) at various times between 711 and 1492.

Random piece of street art in Seville

In this context I'd like to present you an interesting flamenco singer (cantaor), Juan Peña "El Lebrijano". I like him a lot. And not because he's blonde. I like him for his way of expressing himself and voicing his feelings. You could say it's unusual, original. And you'd be right. There really are more and more Moorish influences found in his music. But, you know what, I just find him powerful. It's as simple as that. If you have patience, take a look at an assortment of the flamenco styles El Lebrijano masters.

Well, here he is in all his glory:

Seville Fair through the camera eye

Here's an El País photo gallery and a series of YouTube video clips to share the core essence of the April Fair (Feria de Abril). I encourage you to take a look at them if you haven't already, but you are curious about the parade of carriages (paseo de caballos) or interested in flamenco dress fashion, or you want to see how the Sevillanas is danced by Sevillians or what are the Fair stands (casetas) like.

Understanding the Sevillanas through examples

Today, I also want to bring to your attention the Sevillanas usually heard and played at the Seville Fair, especially in the stands (casetas) where live music is not performed. First, I want to share with you a list of the top 10 Sevillanas that made history drawn up by M. Moguer, which I found on the news site ABCdesevilla. Based on this list the most typical ones are the following: Mirala cara a cara; Cántame; Esta niña viene tarde; ¡Ay que te como!; Sevillanas de los bloques; Cuando un amigo se va; Sueña la Margarita; Historia de una amapola; Me casé con un enano; and, A bailar sevillanas.

Here are some more examples for you to enjoy:

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Sevillanas - Always there at the Seville Fair

Now that the April Fair (Feria de Abril) in Seville is ceremonially closed, I take my time to say a couple of words about one of the most important characteristics of it - folk art as expressed in singing and dancing. 

The gate of the Fair at night (Photo by Antonio de Juico)

At the Seville Fair, it's Sevillanas. What is it? My goodness, I most certainly have some difficulties in defining what the Sevillanas is! It's a real Andalusian thing, that's in the first place. And it has a lot to do with expressing oneself in the complexity of music. But it's not just melody and lyrics. Neither can I simply say that it's flamenco, a style you have probably heard of.

It's telling the stories of people (pueblo) through music or verse, or both music and verse. It can be a rhymed verse recited, but more often it's music performed together with the verse sung. It's the music you take part in:

• playing the guitar or other “folk” instruments; 
• singing or dancing a melody overheard; 
• creating additional background sounds to contribute to harmony; 
• cheering the musicians, singers and dancers.

Snapshot from the Carlos Saura's "Sevillanas"

Andalusia consists of the eight southern provinces of Spain. It is the largest region of the peninsula both geographically and in population. Famous for its fortified wine, bullfights, and picturesque white villages, this region is also home of the famous flamenco and the popular four-line verse known as the copla. Most flamenco lyrics (for singing, cante) occur in this form, especially the Sevillanas, but coplas are also composed for unaccompanied oral recitations and for spoken performances. Andalusians are well known for their wild love for song and dance, but, as the legendary researcher David D. Gilmore says in his 1986 article on Andalusian oral poetry (see the references), when it comes to oral art, they are indeed proud public performers, glorying in their talent for expressing deep emotion through imaginative wordplay.

All the oral creations are composed for speaking or singing before large groups. The most popular of the flamenco lyrics, the Sevillana verses (copla), are highly mannered and predictable. As an illustration, fully half of the songs collected by Gilmore contained pointed material about women - mothers, wives, daughters, fiancées, and mothers-in-law. Among many, the following is an example of the Sevillana verses about unequal relationship between an upper-class seducer (señorito), depicted as a rapacious bird of prey, and his victim, an innocent working class sewing girl with a strong erotic appeal. This copla is taken from another article written by Gilmore in 1983 on Andalusian oral literature (see the references).

Era como una paloma Tan fina y tan distinguida Su pelo con el aroma De rosa de Alejandría. Pero en el pueblo sabían Que sus ojos le seguían Y las gentes comentaban: Pobrecita la paloma Si el aguila la alcanzara. Como una ave de rapiña Que a su victima acechaba Sorprendiéndola en el vuelo Cuando mas se confiaba. Señorito rodeado de Criados mal pagados Que te alaban falsamente Dios te va a mandar Un castigo para vengar A esa inocente.

She was like a dove, So elegant and pure. Her hair had the fragrance Of subtlest damask roses. But her fellow townsmen knew That his cruel eyes were on her; And they said: The poor dove is lost If the eagle overtakes her. Like a bird of prey Which stalks its victim, Surprising her in flight, When most unsuspecting, Señorito, surrounded by Badly paid servants Who falsely flatter, God himself will punish you To avenge This innocent girl.

There is an absolutely excellent book on the cante (sadly not in English), expertly written by a Cordovan poet, Ricardo Molina, and a flamenco singer from Mairena del Alcor, Antonio Mairena (see the references).

Molina and Mairena tell us that the Sevillanas is not a Gypsy song (Cante Jondo), but an archetype of the Andalusian flamenco-like folk song (Cante Flamenco), and is thus a historically accurate folkloric and regional song in its essence, tuned by some Gypsy touch that is, in some cases, even more pronounced. The Sevillanas was there in the public domain already before the 19^th century. It hasn't evolved in isolation, in privacy at homes (casa), as compared to the Gypsy song, but has always been considered a public heritage. Its sole purpose has always been to accompany the dance. So, the Sevillanas is both sung and danced, and it's sung and danced by Andalusian people in a wide variety of ways.

The Sevillanas is a must-sing at fairs and pilgrimages (e.g. La Romería) in Andalusia. It's not limited to Seville and Sevillians, but loved community-wide thanks to its joyful ease and rhythm. That what distinguishes the Sevillanas, is its catching grace together with its lightness, liveliness and flexibility. The Sevillanas is performed in small groups supported by the appropriate social tools, including:

• alcoholic drinks (such as wine, anisette, whisky or something of the kind) to be had so as to be tuned in, so to speak, and share the same emotional temperature;
• clapping (palmas) that serves a musical rhythmic function, being often mixed with finger snapping (pitos), guitar body tapping (percusiones en la madera de la guitarra), foot tapping (zapateo, taconeo),  or table/chair beating (golpeo de mesa, golpeo de silla) either with the flat hand or knuckles; and,
• cheering (jaleo) that serves an auditory stimulation function comprising a series of spontaneous shouts of admiration, like ¡Je!, ¡Ezo!, ¡Ezo é! (That's right!), ¡Arza!, ¡Olé!

Gilmore adds to the latter that the pleasure in the release of feelings communicated by the many shouts in the audience can also be in the way of approval and agreement: ¡Verdad! (How true!), ¡Así se canta! (That's the way to put it!), and so on.

Katherine Thomas, an award winning flamenco artist graduated from the University of California with a Master of Arts in Dance, suggests a good book by Ana Maria Durand-Viel, "La Sevillana" (1983), to learn about the history of the Sevillanas, its terminology, the phrasing of dance sequences, and the instrumentation for the dance (see the references). In that book the performance styles and contexts are also exploited, including the festival version of the dance performed during La Romería, the spring pilgrimage made from Seville to Rocío each year. According to Thomas, Durand-Viel's work reflects earlier excellent books on Spanish dance, notably La Meri's 1948 English-language "Spanish dancing", which includes classifications and descriptions of Spanish and flamenco dance styles, and Teresa Martinez de la Peña's 1969 "Teoría y Practica del Baile Flamenco", which lists and categorizes flamenco dances, defines and describes the sections of flamenco dance, and describes how to approach a performance impressionistically.

And, as referred to in one of the previous posts, there are several documentaries that focus on cultural phenomena, including those on flamenco, such as a 52-minute film about the Sevillanas directed by Carlos Saura (studied by Manuel Trenzado Romero). It's available on DVD (PAL), and partly on YouTube.

DVD cover of the Carlos Saura's "Sevillanas"

Rebujito - Official drink of the Seville Fair

It's 7.30 PM and it's 31 degrees! It's festival time here in Seville and today I'm bringing you some information about the way of enjoying it in these sunny days. It's about drink culture. It's about having fun without hurting yourself in anyway. For this reason, the Andalusians have invented special drinks.

Gate of this year's Seville Fair 

Rebujito is a wine coctail that was born at the April Fair (Feria de Abril) in Seville of a need to have a refreshing drink with a low alcohol content. Its etymological origin traces it back to the action of stirring (rebullir), which is, quite exactly, what the making of it is like. It's a delicious drink of fortified white wine mixed with lime-flavoured soft drink, such as Pepsi's 7 Up or Coca-Cola's Sprite, poured over a high ball glass full of ice and garnished with a spray of mint (herbabuena). The Andalusians usually mix one part wine to two parts of soft drink, but it's more like a question of taste. Rebujito is an Andalusian specialty mainly consumed at fairs and and other festive occasions, becoming more and more popular throughout Spain.

Herbabuena for an Andalusian-style long drink

The wine used to make a good rebujito is typically, but not always, dry. Thus, it's el fino or la manzanilla (pretty much the same thing, both made from Palomino grape), but depending on an area to be in, it can get more specific. 

Rebujito wines used in Cádiz and Jerez

So, the fino they use in Cádiz is often Fino Pavón, in Jerez it's Fino Tío Pepe, and in Córdoba it's Fino Montilla-Moriles. 

Rebujito wines used in Córdoba

The ones they use most in Seville are Fino Quinta, Manzanilla La Quita and Manzanilla La Gitana. 

Rebujito wines, typical at the April Fair in Seville

In Málaga they tend to use sweet wine instead, normally Moscatel Cartojal:

That drink is accompanied by finger food (picoteo), or a  proper lunch or dinner (comida), and goes perfectly with all the seafood treats of the Fair.

Agriculture in Spain

As regards the agricultural sector, Spain has the second largest area under cultivation in the European Union after France (more than 24 million hectares given over to crops and pasture annually) and is the EU's fourth-ranking agricultural power, accounting for approximately 11% of the EU-27's total production, behind France (18%), Germany and Italy. Nevertheless, the agricultural sector's working population has gradually declined over the years and agriculture’s relative contribution to GDP has fallen steadily, dropping to 2,6% in 2006.

From fruits and vegetables to wine and spices, Spain has an abundance of native crops. However, Spanish crops are very vulnerable to temperature and precipitation fluctuations, and insect, storm and frost damage. As in other semiarid Mediterranean regions, water deficiency and water restrictions are a major problem that Spain has to face. In Spain, water consumed for agriculture represents 80 percent of the total national water consumption. Then, the proportion of land devoted to agricultural purposes in Spain is low: 55% of agricultural production is made in 15% of the territory. A considerable propotion of agricultural land area in Spain is dedicated to permanent crop production: orchards, olive groves and vineyards, citrus fruits, vegetables, olive oil and wine being Spain's traditional agricultural products.

Spain is the leading producer of oranges and mandarins in the world, and the second leading producer of grapefruit, lemons and limes. Most of Spain's agricultural production is, in fact, citrus fruits. Ideal growing conditions, combined with proximity to important north European markets, have made them Spain's leading export. Spain is also the second leading producer of olives and olive oil. Although olive trees grow throughout the Mediterranean coastal region, they constitute the most important crop in Andalusia, particularly in the province of Jaén. 

Other warm-weather crops, such as cotton, tobacco, and sugarcane, are also produced in Andalusia, as are wine and table grapes. There are many vineyards in Spain, producing both wine and grapes. 

Other significant orchard crops in Spain are apples, bananas, pears, peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, figs and nuts (especially almond). Spain is an important strawberry producer too, it's the biggest in the EU, actually, and the number two producer, after the USA, in the world. Wheat (especially in Andalusia), corn, barley and rice are all grown in Spain, and principle vegetable crops are potatoes, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cabbages, peppers and green beans.

I don't know what else to mention… Things like sunflower seeds maybe. Or a vast variety of edible legumes, such as chick peas (garbanzos) and lentils (lentejas). 

Or gourmet specialties, such as saffron, a costly spice grown mainly in south central Spain just below Madrid. Or meat, of course, meat. It's worth the trip!

Solomillo al whisky - the most typical tapa in Seville

Wines the Andalusians love

It has as much to do with agriculture as it has to do with culture. It involves people, both vine growers and wine makers. It's all tied together. Spain, and Andalusia in particular, is a hotbed of both agriculture and culture. When the two come together, an abundance of unique senses of well-being obviously arise.

Enologist from Jerez (Image of Regulation Council of Sherry Wines)

Grapes are the third biggest crop in Spain after cereals and olives. Spain is the number one ranked country in the world in terms of area covered by vineyards (superficie de viñedo), but as the climate is dry, it is only third wine producer (productor vitícola) behind France and Italy, according to the data released by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (see the references). One third of Spanish wine is exported. Although most of wine made in Spain is red, more than 60% of its vineyards are white. This is because Spain also produces a lot of brandy and sherry. The main red grape varieties in Spain are Tempranillo, Bobal, Garnacha (Grenache) and Monastrell, the white grape ones being Airén, Macabeo, Palomino and Pedro Ximenez. There's one more curious fact that you merely may possibly not be aware of, although not relevant to the issue at hand: Spain is one of the top five importers of Scotch whiskey in the world.

Harvest of Palomino grapes at Barbadillo's vineyard (Image from news site Globedia)

In Andalusia, the focus is on high quality production - more than 70% of the vineyards are located within the boundaries of one of the following six Denominations of Origin and run under that designation: Condado de Huelva, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (also produced in one municipality of Seville), Málaga, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar, Montilla-Moriles, and Sierras de Málaga.

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. label

There are also 16 wines with geographic designation (Vinos de la Tierra label) in Andalusia with a level of quality certification which lies somewhere between that of common table wines and Denomination of Origin status. They are of medium quality and good value for money.

Geographic designation label for the wines from Cádiz

The sherries from Jerez are startlingly delightful, the dry as well as the sweet, raisiny versions. This explains that if you asked the Andalusians to name the wines they love most, it would go something like this: “If you are thinking of red wines, I would suggest Rioja and Riberia del Duero. In terms of white wines, I would stick to those from Jerez.” One of their top reds would probably be Rioja, the other may vary from person to person. But see, still all from Spain!

A glass of dry sherry (Image from a blog)

People outside of Spain, by and large, do not drink sherry, and tend to regard it as a dessert wine. In Andalusia, sherries are appreciated dry, so, you should try to taste some of the dry ones. Manzanillas and Finos, the lighter, dry sherries make exquisite aperitifs, perfect for sipping a little at a time and enjoying with green olives.

Fresh olives

Have a small glass (copita) of cold Solear Manzanilla (Bodegas Barbadillo, D.O. Jerez-Xéres-Sherry), for example.

NV Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Manzanilla Solear

For more, go to the guide of the best wines from Spain by José Peñin.

However, I have one more point to make. The Andalusians do not have blinders on, being open to all there is to taste in the world-wide wine market. They also treasure the sensations brought about by foreign beverages. A wine, for instance, a friend of mine loves, is Tokaji Oremus from Hungary.

2000 Oremus Tokaji Szamorodni Édes Sweet

Andalusian rap. Cadiz's case

Mala Rodríguez (also La Mala, La Mala María) is probably the most exciting of the rap artists (raperos) from Cádiz to present. She started rapping in 1996 and has been very productive, cooperative and successful ever since. This post is dedicated both to her solo projects and collabos with other people. I begin with the rottenest of her songs, kindly greeting all the possible punk readers. Hope you enjoy the selection of videos.

First, she in her full glory and finery:

La Mala working together with other Andalusian raperos from Cádiz (All Day Green), Seville (Tote King and SFDK) and Málaga (Capaz), as well as with a flamenco guitarrist (tocaor) from Sevilla (Raimundo Amador) and a flamenco singer (cantaor) from Granada (Antonio Carmona):

La Mala collaborating with artists and groups from other cities and Spanish-speaking areas; including the cradles of Spanish rap, Madrid (Poison and Kultama) and Zaragoza (Violadores del Verso), and Argentina/Uruguay (Bajofondo), Mexico (Kinky and Julieta Venegas), Puerto Rico (Vico C, Calle 13, and Tego Calderón) and Dominican Republic (Romeo Santos and Arianna Puello, rapping in the same song with already familiar Andalusians and Meko from Guinea Ecuatorial):

La Mala's projects with the artists from the rest of the world, Canada (Nelly Furtado) and Bulgaria (Upsurt):