Andalusian rap. Málaga's case

I guess everybody already knows that rap is a type of music that is spoken, not sung, in rhyme to the rhythm of a music beat. The word rap comes from a 1960s slang word for conversation. Often, rap music uses bits of other songs to provide a beat (in the case of Andalusia, it's often flamenco and reggae). As most rap songs center around daily life, often focusing on the hardships and violence that are often a big part of life in big cities, we could consider rap “street poetry” (poesía callejera). Rap had never attracted my attention before settling myself in Andalusia, but here it's appealing. For this reason, I'm ready to claim that rap andaluz (or rap español, looking at it in the bigger picture, though) may be the best there is. Without mentioning the thrilling presentation, it's noteworthy only because of the dialect. At that, my today's post is dedicated to raperos malagueños for the creation of the rap artists from Seville and Málaga being the core of Andalusian rap, at least that is what my understanding is so far. There are a lot of outstanding pieces available on YouTube, both individual projects and collaborations, as it's a common practice among local rap artists to collaborate with other doers; perhaps the best known of them being Gordo Master, Jefe de la M, Little Pepe, Ijah, El Niño Snake, Triple XXX, Keyo, Rook Jack and Juho.

Without further ado here's a selection of their work for your inspiration. Enjoy!

García Lorca's "Malagueña"

This time I bring a poem into your attention. It's García Lorca's. This is for several reasons. Firstly, it's called Malagueña, and I have just been to Málaga, another Andalusian city, for a short visit. Secondly, Federico García Lorca is one of my favourite Andalusian poets (from Granada). Thirdly, he was a true devotee (aficionado) of Cante Jondo and flamenco music with what the poem also has to do (for García Lorca's book, see the references).

MALAGUEÑA	MALAGUEÑA
La muerte entra y sale de la taberna. Pasan caballos negros y gente siniestra por los hondos caminos de la guitarra. Y hay un olor a sal y a sangre de hembra, en los nardos febriles de la marina. La muerte entra y sale y sale y entra la muerte the de la taberna.	Death enters, and leaves, the tavern. Black horses and sinister people travel the deep roads of the guitar. And there’s a smell of salt and of female blood in the fevered tuberoses of the shore. Death enters, and leaves, and leaves, and enters, death of the tavern. Translation from here.

The title of the poem has several metaphorical connotations: it refers to a city (Málaga), a song (malagueña) and a woman/death, as malagueña is also understood as a woman from Málaga (I'll make the point on the connection with death clear some time in the future). According to George Boylston Brown, a music historian (please, see the references), malagueña is an example of native folk art of Gypsy influence (but not considered to be pure Gypsy folk art) together with rondena, granadina, cartagenera, murciana, fandanguillo, tango, seguidilla, sevillana and saetas. Basically, it's a traditional style of Andalusian music, a flamenco song used for dance. And, as stated in a study of a Hispanist, Walter Starkie, there is a distinction between Cante Flamenco (flamenco song) and Cante Jondo (deep song): Cante Jondo is limited to the purer and less corrupted style of singing - people have used the word Cante Jondo as a synonym of Cante Gitano (Gypsy song), whereas Cante Flamenco is used for every sort of Andalusian folk songs.

Edward Stanton, Professor Emeritus at the Department of Spanish Studies in the University of Kentucky in Lexington, who has worked on comparative literature and popular Spanish culture and has published on such topics as Hemingway in Spain and the contemporary pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, agrees those for whom García Lorca is an "extremist". García Lorca noted that the poetry of Gypsy music - Andalusian music influencer, as already stressed above - lacks a middle tone. Love and death constitute the two basic poles, leaving little room for the development of intermediate themes. The deepest forms of this music flourish only in extreme states - religious or sensual ecstasy, freedom, death, guilt. Stanton says that the poems do not usually describe or comment on these states. Their involvement is too direct to permit the luxury of moral or philosophical speculation.

For my Estonian readers, here's a very fine video version of García Lorca's Malagueña:

Winter Webworms

These dudes are literally everywhere. Pavements are covered in them (and dog poo, of course). It has been like that at least for three weeks now. The Winter Webworm (Ocnogyna baetica) is a moth (of the family Arctiidae) living in the south of Spain and is actually far more widespread as its larvae are a common plague of the herbaceous areas of western Mediterranean area. The thing is that the Winter Webworm moth has been a "people problem", a real pain in the ass from the viewpoint of gardeners. Not much of a nuisance for the people who walk the streets of the villages surrounding the city or run to catch a metro to downtown, like me.

I ain't no photographer, heh

The female has no wings and looks like a hairy chocolote-coloured ball, hardly relatable to a moth at the first sight. Male moths are "normal", with black spots on the white background of the wings. Incubation of their eggs lasts between 40 and 70 days. Which is why there was no sign of them (well, the larvae) in the streets before February. The larvae are about 5,1-7,6 cm long (i.e 2-3 inches), black, and covered, during their development, with hair of variable colour (usually, orange).

Photo used is taken from from blog Gerena Viva

Spawning takes place in October and the eggs hatch in mid-December, which is early and can be considered an adaptation of the species to the grassy areas of Mediterranean region, as the larvae feed on grass (sweetvetch, clover, wallflower, mallow, etc.), what withers quickly in the summer, while is green and lush in the winter. In the early stages (until March), the larvae stay together feeding on the ground moving beneath the web they weave themselves. Anyway, it is going to be warmer and warmer from now on, and they have to be feeding heavily to be fat soon to turn into a cocoon. These moths spend in the pupal state (in the soil) all the summer until the autumn, or may even take a year to emerge.

These rainy, rainy days

It's raining. Cats and dogs. Oh, I just met an extraordinary cat today before it started to pour. Find it in the picture! And, just for the record, the photo was only taken to register the graffiti on the wall (la furia - rage, anger, fury).

Anyway, to come back to the rain, it's a special thing down here. It's a special treat for the people who have hard time with summer heat. It's an event for the weather-beaten countrymen to have the thirsty soil watered. And it's definitely a very special delivery for the seed. All in all, a blessing. Sevillians don't ever try to shelter themselves from it, but rather accept the rain as they accept life. Some are well-prepared, sure. They have their 80 euro rubber boots and an umbrella and everything. Others just run in the rain. Neither get wet. Although all prefer not to go out (which is really something, I'm telling you) on these rainy days. They stay at home instead. They keep themselves nice and warm and listen to the rain. Loving the sound of it. They find it comforting.

Having lived here for a while now, I have learned not to whine about the wet. I'm just feeling the craziest relief if I have happened to choose to put random boots on rather than favourite leopard print stilettos before going out on the days that turn rainy. And later on, hanging my knee-deep wet jeans to dry, I have no hard feelings. All let to grow.

To sum up with, here's a song that makes the point more strongly. ToteKing, a 34-year-old Sevillian rap artist (rapero), nails it, plain and clear, saying: “Nothing grows without food”.

For those who might be interested: the link to the lyrics (in Spanish)

Sites worth to visit in Seville

Below are the some of the favourite cultural attractions of Seville as recommended by travellers from all over the world according to TripAdvisor, World's Best Places, Lonely Planet and Sacred Destinations:

• Reales Alcázares de Sevilla (Royal Alcazars of Seville) - the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe;
• Plaza de España (Spain Square) - a plaza built for the Ibero-American Expo of 1929;
• Barrio Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz Neighbourhood) - the former Jewish quarter of the medieval Seville;
• La Giralda (The Giralda) - a former minaret that was converted to a bell tower for the Cathedral of Seville;
• Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus (Memorial for Andalusí Culture) - Flamenco club;
• Catedral de Santa María de la Sede (Cathedral of Seville) - a Roman Catholic cathedral, being the largest Gothic cathedral and the fourth-largest church in the world;
• Parque de María Luisa (The Maria Luisa Park) - a public park that stretches along the Guadalquivir River;
• Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla (Museum of Fine Arts of Seville) - one of the greatest collections of mainly Spanish visual arts from the medieval period to the early 20th century;
• Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla (The Bullring of Seville) - the oldest bullring in Spain;
• Casa de Pilatos (Pilate's House) - a prototypical Andalusian palace, which serves as the permanent residence of the Dukes of Medinaceli;
• Iglesia Colegial del Salvador (Collegiate Church El Salvador) - the Seville's second biggest Roman Catholic religious temple;
• Torre del Oro (The Gold Tower) - a twelve-sided military watchtower, built in order to control access to Seville via the Guadalquivir river;
• Real Fábrica de Tabacos (The Royal Tobacco Factory) - an 18th-century stone building, which was a lineal descendant of Europe's first tobacco factory and currently serves as the seat of the rectorate of the University of Seville;
• Basílica de Santa María de la Esperanza Macarena (The Basilica of Macarena) - seat of a Holy Week brotherhood Hermandad de la Esperanza Macarena, possessing the most revered image in Seville, Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza (Our Lady Hope), which Sevillians call La Macarena;
• Casa de la Guitarra (The Guitar House) - a museum and venue for flamenco shows.

Weather

Now that we are in mid-February and winter looks like it might well be on its way (it's above 20 degrees Celsius), life has started to run into the streets again. Just wait a couple of months and it'll let go! Men in Seville - and more and more women too - so love to be in the street. Warmth-loving Sevillians surely hope summer has dig its heels in.

Photos taken on 14 February 2013

For many, the reason they come to Spain is because of the weather. Northern Europeans crowd the beaches of Spain with supposedly guaranteed sun all day, every day. But it isn't as simple as that. It's a common myth about Spain that the weather is always good. It is true that in the summer it will usually be sunny, especially in the south. Then again, the humidity makes the winters super bone-chilling cold here, in the households without proper heating nearly unbearable to deal with. However, it's worth noting that July and August can be too hot in so many cities.

Andalusia is a Mediterranean region. In broad terms, it's characterised above all by a pronounced summer drought, but within this classification marked differences exist. The climate of Andalusia may be classified thus: coastal oceanic, subtropical, sub-desert, semi-continental, continental and mountain climate.

So, Andalusia is where there the hottest and driest summers are in Spain, but contrary to what many people think, as a whole, the region enjoys above average yearly rainfall in the context of the whole country. As the matter of fact, many of its provinces receive more than 1000 mm of rain a year, double that of Madrid. And, much of Andalusia enjoys in excess of 300 days of sun a year.

Among the provincial capitals, Almeria and Seville, have the highest average temperatures in Spain with 18,6ºC and 18,7ºC, respectively. In Andalusia, Granada is the coolest at an average of 15,1ºC. The average annual temperature of Andalusia as a whole is said to be above 16ºC. The coldest month is January, while the hottest is August.

The highest temperature recorded in Spain is 47,4ºC in Seville. See?! There are a number of other figures around 47ºC, at Écija, also known as the „frying pan of Andalusia“, in the province of Seville. Weathermen suspect that temperatures of 50ºC have been reached at points in the Guadalquivir basin. The Spanish version of the Guinness Book of Records give the absolute record in Spain as the 51ºC recorded in Seville. This, however, is not accepted by experts as it was made in 1876 using suspect equipment.

Birthday parties

It was my birthday yesterday. I have been thinking... I have always thought the world of a good long party to celebrate my day. Ain't nothing better than that. But then, I like it to be vibrant, a party full of life, not an over-organized and well-rehearsed product. I like it noisy, raw and real, or I prefer not to have it. However, this is a party done the way I like it:

I must say, the Gypsies really “know the note”. At least, these ones, the fish market (pescadería) guys from Almería.

Beginning of Lent

It's Ash Wednesday today, the beginning of Lent and the most solemn period of the Roman Catholic year. Lent (Cuaresma) is an effort to relive Jesus's forty-day fast in the wilderness and is regarded as a time of ascetic preparation for Easter. Catholic Lent is a period of 40 days, not including Sundays, beginning with Ash Wednesday and ending at midnight on Easter Saturday. The meaning of all this is to reduce one's "bodily pleasures" for the duration of Lent but commonly it's about not eating any meat on Ash Wednesday and fridays. Ash Wednesday is named after the practice of burning the palms from the previous year’s Palm Sunday and placing blessed ashes in the form of crosses on churchgoers' foreheads as a reminder that “man is but dust” when faced with God and a reminder to fast, pray and confess. Generally, Lent is a time of penitence in preparation for reaffirming baptism at Easter during which Catholics choose to “give up” something they like (meat, chocolate, alcohol, etc.) or give of themselves through service.

All the cultures have their periods of abstinence (of bodily purification, of physiological hygine) that have granted them, like to everything important in the ancient world, the sacred and religious nature. In the Gospel of Matthew there is a phrase that condemns this torture: "When you fast, do not look somber as the hypocrites do, for they disfigure their faces to show men they are fasting. I tell you the truth, they have received their reward in full. But when you fast, put oil on your head and wash your face...” (Matthew 6:16-17). This is why Andalusians fast with joy and pride. To some forty days on fish and seafood could be a real torture, but not to them. Making something out of little is what their forefathers learned during the times of severe poverty and what is still in their genetic memory. So, they say here in Andalusia that everyone can cook meat, but cooking meatless food that tastes fabulous needs imagination. Hence, they do not only cook fish but also dishes prepared using fish stock as they go through Lent, and have, as they still bother to prepare vegetables for dinner, truly mastered creative cooking. Some typical delicious low-cost dishes for Lent that are prepared in Andalusian homes and restaurant kitchens are fried cod in batter (pavías de bacalao), fisherman's rice (arroz a banda), potatoes “of importance” (patatas a la importancia), spinach and chickpea stew (guiso de garbanzos con espinacas), scrambled eggs with tagarninas (revuelto de tagarninas con huevos), chickpea stew (potaje de garbanzos), lentil and artichoke stew (guiso de lentejas con corazones de alcachofas), and for the dessert (postre), rice pudding (arroz con leche), for example. In the pastry shops (pastelerías), you will find sweets which are only made during Lent and the Easter Season. In Seville, these are pestiños (small fried cinnamon pastries), torrijas (bread soaked in milk and fried in batter with sugar) and huesos de santo (filled marzipan rolls).

Here's a recipe to try at home:

Potatoes “of importance” (Patatas a la importancia)

Ingedients for 4 persons are 4-6 potatoes, 3 eggs, 1 onion, 2-4 cloves of garlic, 3 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 cup olive oil, 1 sprig of parsley, 6 strands of saffron, water or chicken broth, and salt. Peel, wash and cut the potatoes into rounds approximately 1 cm thick; season them. Put the flour in one dish and beat the eggs in another. Put the potatoes in the flour and then into the beaten egg. Fry in plenty of hot oil. Make a paste with the garlic, saffron, parsley and salt. Heat 3 spoonfuls of oil and cook the peeled and chopped onion until it begins to brown. Add 1 spoonful of flour, stir rapidly and add the paste, without stopping stirring. Put the potatoes in a casserole, pour the prepared mixture over them and add 2 cups of water or broth. Place on the heat and, when it begins to boil, correct the seasoning and cook on a gentle heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Take off the heat, sprinkle with chopped parsley and put into a fairly hot oven, letting them cook for another 5-10 minutes. Serve in the same dish. You can also put some potatoes in their sauce on each plate and serve with a bit of parsley or chopped boiled egg on top.

And, just in case, a video tutorial (in Spanish):

The Making of "Patatas a la Importancia"

This is more or less what the finished dish should look like.

Intro

I have postponed the writing for some time already, because of not knowing, where exactly to start. But still, unwilling to let the idea go, I just set it off. Well, Seville! I could as well say, love. That's it, I should admit I love Seville. Though, I have no intention to stay here forever, it's not a fling. I am actually nordic, almost as nordic as one can be, but I have always had this enjoying-the-life spirit typical to Andalusia, and been tempered and restless like a gypsy.

I have followed my likes and tastes composing the posts. Everything you have here on this blog of mine bases on my personal experiences and knowledge, hence, on my interpretations as a result of dealings with Andalusian people. And, what I haven't lived I have read about. But you can still see my very own touch in the selection of books used and articles referred, as much as in the examples chosen and issues discussed. My blog is meant to be about peoples and neighbourhoods of Seville, not viewed from wholly random angles, but with an emphasis on cultural symbols and values, and with just some erratic digressions into geography, climate and other apparently irrelevant illustrative matters of Andalusia in general. Therefore, I will be posting about Guadalquivir, cities of the South, Andalusian dialect, religious imagery, Semana Santa, Feria de Abril and other traditional celebrations, private and public domains of life (casa and calle), folk songs and flamenco (i.e. genre of gypsy origin), poetry and literature, architecture and monuments, bulls, ham and wine, and more.

So, why am I so attracted to Sevillians? Is it because they are described as feeling at total ease about all the things around here? Negative. Although, the fact that calendar has more importance than a watch telling time, is adorable in itself. But, as I already said, that's not really it. It's because what the people do is of more importance than what they are here. Almost every act of sociality is considered a rite in Seville. Sociality is natural, not pathological. Moreover, it's considered to be a behavioural strategy that reduces social risks. This is for what I can't help but love and respect them.

Social and cultural anthropology is something I have become passionate about over the years, which explains why you will see me writing a lot about customs and folklore. I want to share as much information as I can about Sevillians and Andalusians with the ones who don't read Spanish, but want to know more about history and culture of Southern Spain or Southern Europe generally, and with those who are interested just in notions of the same for planning an informed trip to Seville.