Showing posts with label spirits. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spirits. Show all posts

26 October 2013

A bar where I feel like home - El Urbano

El Urbano (The Urban) is another bar in Seville that I find to be exceptionally comfortable. It's a cocktail bar decorated with the intention to give it an impression of street. Tables and chairs create an atmosphere as if it were a terrace, and there are many stepping stones laid on the ground to sit on. There are lamp posts, street benches and other street elements along both sides of its walkways. Men's room simulates a phone booth of London, it's red and all. Besides, you can watch in through the windows. Fortunately, it's not the case of ladies' room. 


Entrance of El Urbano. Image taken from a hotel searching site Trivago España

For me, it's not about the surroundings there. It's about people. These free and easy bohemians I miss so much. It just has a very hometowny kind of feel. It somehow brings together the types of people I understand best and feel comfortable with. It may be because the play rock, including the rock of the world. And this is something that knows no generational limits, attracting enthusiasts of all ages, which is exactly what I like in a bar.

9 August 2013

A glass of water. Rather a bottle, a bucket?

I do not really have to do much to meet my daily fluid needs. I'm not a drinker by any means. I have a coffee every morning and another in the late afternoon or early evening. Sometimes I will have a tea, another caffeine drink, in the evening. Occasionally I would have a beer or two or a glass of wine but not very often. And I would crave for some ice-cold vodka at times. But that's it - no water, juice or soft drinks. Water doesn't taste quite right to me and the latter two are too sweet for use with food. And, I'm rarely thirsty. Mind you, I'm no water drinker, but apparently I'd give it a shot if I were in Seville in the summer heat. The temperatures under 40 degrees Celsius wouldn't bother me a bit, be that at home or in the street, but at those approaching or passing 50, I would change my rutine. I would drink water, getting that it's life.

Water is life. Phyto by gadel84 from Global Gallery

Sevillians are profoundly aware of the most fundamental human needs, when it comes to water. They drink tons of it in Seville.

Kid chilling with water from a street tap in a hot day. Photo by AFP from Diario Público

There's even a corner at an intersection of two streets in Santa Cruz neighbourhood dedicated to the message: agua es vida, water is life.

Water and life. Photo by plaillo1 from Facilisimo Interactive

23 May 2013

In the search for spirits. Vodkas, rums and gins

I overheard three Finnish guys talking on the bus the other day that made me ask to myself: how do they, poor things, survive down here? I'm not saying that it seems impossible, but I admit, it must be challenging. To be literally not able to buy vodka for having no choice whatsoever, well, for having no more than three labels to choose from. Which is as good as nothing. Especially considering that one of them is not known in the part of the world these guys are from.

A common sight in the supermarkets

About the choices. One of the brands in the market - Absolut Vodka - is Swedish. It is extraordinary and should be ranked among the best vodkas in the world. I suggest you not to trust any top 10 or whatever lists that don't have Absolut Vodka in it. Seriously!

Then there is Smirnoff Vodka that, though originally Russian, belongs to a British Company. It has gone hand in hand with James Bond for more than 50 years. Somehow this doesn't sound sexy to me. At all. It makes me sort of critical about its glamorous comercial image instead. Off it goes! ¡Fuera! Just joking, it's an honest drink...

And, the third - Vodka Knebep - doesn't really count. It's a brand of a Spanish supermarket chain, Mercadona, but yet, let's be honest, Spain ain't no vodka producer!

The Finns living here, on the other hand, are from a colder climate originally and therefore used to strong spirits with pure and simple taste. Being from the Northern Europe myself, I'm somewhat familiar with their needs and likes. I would also have a shot of straight, freezing-cold Swedish, Finnish or Estonian vodka every now and then, although I'm one hell of a good cocktail maker. In any case, my personal top would be as depicted in the following picture.

My favourite vodkas

Viru Valge is the best Estonian vodka. For me, a couple of quality brands of Estonia are the purest and best-tasting vodkas in the world, the second-best being Saaremaa Vodka. It also applies to their flavoured products. These are a definite must-try!

Viru Valge flavoured vodkas

Saaremaa Vodka, pure and rhubarb-flavoured

Findlandia Vodka is the best Finland has to offer. And man, they have used pure glacier water to produce it: what more proof you need than this?

So, what to do about it in Spain? Nothing but have rum (ron) or gin (ginebra). A news site abcdesevilla.es has published a top 10 list of essential rums to help you out in the wide choice you might be confronted with, but thanks to my friends I also know a thing or two.

Of the Dominican rums available in Spain, Barceló and Brugal are the two brands worth trying, and Matusalem too, however it has Cuban origins.

Ron Barceló

Ron Brugal

Ron Matusalem

Of Guatemalan rums, Zacapa is your best choice, and of Venezuelan ones, Santa Teresa.

Ron Zacapa

Ron Santa Teresa

And finally, as it would be still nice to have something strong from Europe on the table, let it be a bottle of G'Vine gin from France.

G'Vine gins

22 April 2013

Sevillanas - Always there at the Seville Fair

Now that the April Fair (Feria de Abril) in Seville is ceremonially closed, I take my time to say a couple of words about one of the most important characteristics of it - folk art as expressed in singing and dancing. 
The gate of the Fair at night (Photo by Antonio de Juico)

At the Seville Fair, it's Sevillanas. What is it? My goodness, I most certainly have some difficulties in defining what the Sevillanas is! It's a real Andalusian thing, that's in the first place. And it has a lot to do with expressing oneself in the complexity of music. But it's not just melody and lyrics. Neither can I simply say that it's flamenco, a style you have probably heard of.

It's telling the stories of people (pueblo) through music or verse, or both music and verse. It can be a rhymed verse recited, but more often it's music performed together with the verse sung. It's the music you take part in:
  • playing the guitar or other “folk” instruments; 
  • singing or dancing a melody overheard; 
  • creating additional background sounds to contribute to harmony; 
  • cheering the musicians, singers and dancers.
Snapshot from the Carlos Saura's "Sevillanas"

Andalusia consists of the eight southern provinces of Spain. It is the largest region of the peninsula both geographically and in population. Famous for its fortified wine, bullfights, and picturesque white villages, this region is also home of the famous flamenco and the popular four-line verse known as the copla. Most flamenco lyrics (for singing, cante) occur in this form, especially the Sevillanas, but coplas are also composed for unaccompanied oral recitations and for spoken performances. Andalusians are well known for their wild love for song and dance, but, as the legendary researcher David D. Gilmore says in his 1986 article on Andalusian oral poetry (see the references), when it comes to oral art, they are indeed proud public performers, glorying in their talent for expressing deep emotion through imaginative wordplay.

All the oral creations are composed for speaking or singing before large groups. The most popular of the flamenco lyrics, the Sevillana verses (copla), are highly mannered and predictable. As an illustration, fully half of the songs collected by Gilmore contained pointed material about women - mothers, wives, daughters, fiancées, and mothers-in-law. Among many, the following is an example of the Sevillana verses about unequal relationship between an upper-class seducer (señorito), depicted as a rapacious bird of prey, and his victim, an innocent working class sewing girl with a strong erotic appeal. This copla is taken from another article written by Gilmore in 1983 on Andalusian oral literature (see the references).

Era como una paloma
Tan fina y tan distinguida
Su pelo con el aroma
De rosa de Alejandría.
Pero en el pueblo sabían
Que sus ojos le seguían
Y las gentes comentaban:
Pobrecita la paloma
Si el aguila la alcanzara.

Como una ave de rapiña
Que a su victima acechaba
Sorprendiéndola en el vuelo
Cuando mas se confiaba.
Señorito rodeado de
Criados mal pagados
Que te alaban falsamente
Dios te va a mandar
Un castigo para vengar
A esa inocente.
She was like a dove,
So elegant and pure.
Her hair had the fragrance
Of subtlest damask roses.
But her fellow townsmen knew
That his cruel eyes were on her;
And they said:
The poor dove is lost
If the eagle overtakes her.

Like a bird of prey
Which stalks its victim,
Surprising her in flight,
When most unsuspecting,
Señorito, surrounded by
Badly paid servants
Who falsely flatter,
God himself will punish you
To avenge
This innocent girl.

There is an absolutely excellent book on the cante (sadly not in English), expertly written by a Cordovan poet, Ricardo Molina, and a flamenco singer from Mairena del Alcor, Antonio Mairena (see the references).

Molina and Mairena tell us that the Sevillanas is not a Gypsy song (Cante Jondo), but an archetype of the Andalusian flamenco-like folk song (Cante Flamenco), and is thus a historically accurate folkloric and regional song in its essence, tuned by some Gypsy touch that is, in some cases, even more pronounced. The Sevillanas was there in the public domain already before the 19th century. It hasn't evolved in isolation, in privacy at homes (casa), as compared to the Gypsy song, but has always been considered a public heritage. Its sole purpose has always been to accompany the dance. So, the Sevillanas is both sung and danced, and it's sung and danced by Andalusian people in a wide variety of ways.

The Sevillanas is a must-sing at fairs and pilgrimages (e.g. La Romería) in Andalusia. It's not limited to Seville and Sevillians, but loved community-wide thanks to its joyful ease and rhythm. That what distinguishes the Sevillanas, is its catching grace together with its lightness, liveliness and flexibility. The Sevillanas is performed in small groups supported by the appropriate social tools, including:
  • alcoholic drinks (such as wine, anisette, whisky or something of the kind) to be had so as to be tuned in, so to speak, and share the same emotional temperature;
  • clapping (palmas) that serves a musical rhythmic function, being often mixed with finger snapping (pitos), guitar body tapping (percusiones en la madera de la guitarra), foot tapping (zapateo, taconeo),  or table/chair beating (golpeo de mesa, golpeo de silla) either with the flat hand or knuckles; and,
  • cheering (jaleo) that serves an auditory stimulation function comprising a series of spontaneous shouts of admiration, like ¡Je!, ¡Ezo!, ¡Ezo é! (That's right!), ¡Arza!, ¡Olé!
Gilmore adds to the latter that the pleasure in the release of feelings communicated by the many shouts in the audience can also be in the way of approval and agreement: ¡Verdad! (How true!), ¡Así se canta! (That's the way to put it!), and so on.

Katherine Thomas, an award winning flamenco artist graduated from the University of California with a Master of Arts in Dance, suggests a good book by Ana Maria Durand-Viel, "La Sevillana" (1983), to learn about the history of the Sevillanas, its terminology, the phrasing of dance sequences, and the instrumentation for the dance (see the references). In that book the performance styles and contexts are also exploited, including the festival version of the dance performed during La Romería, the spring pilgrimage made from Seville to Rocío each year. According to Thomas, Durand-Viel's work reflects earlier excellent books on Spanish dance, notably La Meri's 1948 English-language "Spanish dancing", which includes classifications and descriptions of Spanish and flamenco dance styles, and Teresa Martinez de la Peña's 1969 "Teoría y Practica del Baile Flamenco", which lists and categorizes flamenco dances, defines and describes the sections of flamenco dance, and describes how to approach a performance impressionistically.

And, as referred to in one of the previous posts, there are several documentaries that focus on cultural phenomena, including those on flamenco, such as a 52-minute film about the Sevillanas directed by Carlos Saura (studied by Manuel Trenzado Romero). It's available on DVD (PAL), and partly on YouTube.
DVD cover of the Carlos Saura's "Sevillanas"

11 April 2013

Wines the Andalusians love

It has as much to do with agriculture as it has to do with culture. It involves people, both vine growers and wine makers. It's all tied together. Spain, and Andalusia in particular, is a hotbed of both agriculture and culture. When the two come together, an abundance of unique senses of well-being obviously arise.
Enologist from Jerez (Image of Regulation Council of Sherry Wines)

Grapes are the third biggest crop in Spain after cereals and olives. Spain is the number one ranked country in the world in terms of area covered by vineyards (superficie de viñedo), but as the climate is dry, it is only third wine producer (productor vitícola) behind France and Italy, according to the data released by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (see the references). One third of Spanish wine is exported. Although most of wine made in Spain is red, more than 60% of its vineyards are white. This is because Spain also produces a lot of brandy and sherry. The main red grape varieties in Spain are Tempranillo, Bobal, Garnacha (Grenache) and Monastrell, the white grape ones being Airén, Macabeo, Palomino and Pedro Ximenez. There's one more curious fact that you merely may possibly not be aware of, although not relevant to the issue at hand: Spain is one of the top five importers of Scotch whiskey in the world.
Harvest of Palomino grapes at Barbadillo's vineyard (Image from news site Globedia)

In Andalusia, the focus is on high quality production - more than 70% of the vineyards are located within the boundaries of one of the following six Denominations of Origin and run under that designation: Condado de Huelva, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (also produced in one municipality of Seville), Málaga, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar, Montilla-Moriles, and Sierras de Málaga.

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. label

There are also 16 wines with geographic designation (Vinos de la Tierra label) in Andalusia with a level of quality certification which lies somewhere between that of common table wines and Denomination of Origin status. They are of medium quality and good value for money.

Geographic designation label for the wines from Cádiz

The sherries from Jerez are startlingly delightful, the dry as well as the sweet, raisiny versions. This explains that if you asked the Andalusians to name the wines they love most, it would go something like this: “If you are thinking of red wines, I would suggest Rioja and Riberia del Duero. In terms of white wines, I would stick to those from Jerez.” One of their top reds would probably be Rioja, the other may vary from person to person. But see, still all from Spain!

A glass of dry sherry (Image from a blog)

People outside of Spain, by and large, do not drink sherry, and tend to regard it as a dessert wine. In Andalusia, sherries are appreciated dry, so, you should try to taste some of the dry ones. Manzanillas and Finos, the lighter, dry sherries make exquisite aperitifs, perfect for sipping a little at a time and enjoying with green olives.

Fresh olives

Have a small glass (copita) of cold Solear Manzanilla (Bodegas Barbadillo, D.O. Jerez-Xéres-Sherry), for example.
NV Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Manzanilla Solear

For more, go to the guide of the best wines from Spain by José Peñin.

However, I have one more point to make. The Andalusians do not have blinders on, being open to all there is to taste in the world-wide wine market. They also treasure the sensations brought about by foreign beverages. A wine, for instance, a friend of mine loves, is Tokaji Oremus from Hungary.

2000 Oremus Tokaji Szamorodni Édes Sweet